Cacio e Pepe

Three ingredients. Infinite technique. The Roman pasta that humbles every chef who underestimates it.

1. 1

   Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. (Less salt than usual — the Pecorino is very salty.)

2. 2

   Toast the cracked black pepper in a dry wide skillet over medium heat for 60 seconds until fragrant. Remove to a small bowl.

3. 3

   Cook spaghetti 2 minutes less than the package says. It will finish cooking in the sauce.

4. 4

   Reserve at least 1 cup of pasta water before draining.

5. 5

   Add the pepper back to the pan, splash in 1/4 cup pasta water, bring to a gentle simmer.

6. 6

   Add the drained pasta and toss continuously. Add more pasta water a splash at a time.

7. 7

   Remove from heat. Add the grated cheeses in 3 batches, tossing vigorously between each addition. The residual heat melts the cheese. If it seizes up, add a tiny splash of warm pasta water.

8. 8

   Serve immediately in warmed bowls. Add extra cheese and pepper at the table.