Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

Guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, Pecorino Romano. Rome's other great pasta. Use bucatini if you can find it.

1. 1

   Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Cook bucatini 2 minutes less than package time.

2. 2

   Render guanciale in a cold dry skillet over medium heat. Let the fat render slowly — about 8 minutes. Remove guanciale with a slotted spoon, leaving fat in pan.

3. 3

   Add chili flakes to the fat. Add wine and let it sizzle. Add tomatoes. Simmer 15 minutes until slightly thickened. Season with a little salt.

4. 4

   Return guanciale to sauce. Add drained pasta and a splash of pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 2 minutes.

5. 5

   Remove from heat. Add half the Pecorino and toss. Serve with remaining Pecorino on top.