Tiramisu

The real one. No gelatin, no shortcuts. Zabaglione-based mascarpone cream and good espresso. Makes a 9x13 pan that serves 12.

1. 1

   Whisk egg yolks with sugar until pale and ribbony, about 5 minutes. This is the zabaglione base.

2. 2

   Fold mascarpone into the yolk mixture until smooth. Do not over-mix.

3. 3

   In a clean bowl, whisk egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold into mascarpone mixture in 3 additions.

4. 4

   Mix espresso and rum (if using) in a shallow dish. Dip ladyfingers briefly — 1 second per side. They should be moist but not falling apart.

5. 5

   Arrange a single layer in a 9x13 dish. Spread half the cream. Repeat with another layer of dipped ladyfingers and remaining cream.

6. 6

   Smooth the top. Refrigerate at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

7. 7

   Dust generously with cocoa just before serving. Cut into squares.