Dry white wine

Guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, Pecorino Romano. Rome's other great pasta. Use bucatini if you can find it.

Five pounds of onions, three hours, one transcendent bowl. The caramelization cannot be rushed. Anyone who says 30 minutes is lying to you.

Braised veal shanks with gremolata. One of Italy's greatest dishes. The marrow in the bone is the prize.

Lamb shanks take the same treatment. Slower braise. The lamb version is technically Italian too, just less known.

Pancetta instead of guanciale. Easier to find, slightly more smoky. Not traditional but honest.

Thick pork shanks braised in white wine and stock. Cheaper than veal. Nobody is disappointed.

What if French onion soup was a pasta dish? Caramelized onions, sherry, beef stock, and Gruyere. Goes viral every winter for good reason.

Dark beer and mushroom stock replace beef stock. Vegan Gruyere on top still works. The onions are the whole point anyway.

Replace half the guanciale with 'nduja, the spreadable Calabrian pork sausage. The sauce turns orange-red and deeply spicy.