Yuzu Shoyu Ramen

A teaspoon of yuzu juice in each bowl transforms the whole thing. Bright, citrusy, complex. Tokyo ramen shops do this in winter.

1. 1

   Blanch chicken backs in boiling water 1 minute, drain, rinse. This removes impurities for a clear broth.

2. 2

   Cold steep: cover kombu in 2L cold water for 30 min. Bring to 60C (do not boil). Remove kombu.

3. 3

   Add blanched chicken to the dashi. Bring to a simmer, never a boil. Skim constantly for 30 minutes.

4. 4

   Reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered 3 hours. Add katsuobushi and steep 5 minutes. Strain through fine mesh.

5. 5

   Make shoyu tare: combine soy sauce, tamari, and mirin in a small pan. Bring just to a simmer. Cool.

6. 6

   Season broth with tare to taste — start with 3 tbsp per 400ml broth. Adjust.

7. 7

   Cook noodles separately per package. Rinse briefly in cold water to stop cooking.

8. 8

   Warm bowls, add noodles, pour hot broth. Top with chashu, half an egg, nori, and menma.