Lemon

Buttery sweet shortcrust shell filled with silky lemon curd. Sharp, bright, and not too sweet. The tart that I made for my pastry school final.

Braised veal shanks with gremolata. One of Italy's greatest dishes. The marrow in the bone is the prize.

Indian chaat masala replaces za'atar. Tamarind chutney and mint instead of tahini. Completely different but equally correct.

Lime instead of lemon. Add 50ml coconut milk to the curd. The pastry gets a sprinkle of toasted coconut. Tropical and less sharp.

Harissa and brown butter replace tahini. More heat, more richness, more depth. Still roasted whole.

Thick pork shanks braised in white wine and stock. Cheaper than veal. Nobody is disappointed.

Lamb shanks take the same treatment. Slower braise. The lamb version is technically Italian too, just less known.

Whole cauliflower roasted in the oven until charred and tender, served over a pool of lemon-tahini. Middle Eastern pantry, zero effort.

Blood orange juice makes the filling blush pink. Season only — December to February. Worth waiting for.