Chicken backs

Clear, amber broth — chicken and dashi base with a shoyu tare made from three soy sauces. The working person's ramen. Doable in 4 hours.

Kombu-shiitake broth only — no chicken. Soy tare adjusted for the lighter base. Tofu, roasted king oyster mushrooms on top.

A teaspoon of yuzu juice in each bowl transforms the whole thing. Bright, citrusy, complex. Tokyo ramen shops do this in winter.